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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.